Snowflakes are drifting down past the edges of the porch roof, where stacks of apple wood wait to feed the flames in my hearth.

It is snowing today, our first measurable snow this winter.  A surprising, heavy snow managed to sneak in during the midst of autumn this year, well before the winter solstice, but that doesn’t really count.

It feels only fitting and proper that I am surrounded by white, both indoors and out, as I work on creating an all white wardrobe for one of my Izannahs.  She is quite anxious to be off to her new home and is sitting patiently next to my sewing machine, urging me to hurry and finish so that she can begin her travels…

I love cartridge pleating! No other hand-sewing technique is more beautiful.  Used extensively during the 15th and 16th centuries, cartridge pleating had a resurgence in 1830′s – 1860′s.

CARTRIDGE PLEATING VIDEO

Click on this link to watch the 14 minute video :  Link to Learning Cartridge Pleating video

Yesterday I was cartridge pleating the skirt of a reproduction c.1830′s baby dress and on the spur of the moment decided to make a quick how-to video.  Totally unscripted and off the cuff , but hopefully helpful to any of you who would like to add more fullness and a marvelous period detail to your reproduction Izannah Walker doll clothing.  You can easily modify the skirt of my Izannah Walker Doll Clothes Pattern to change from a gathered to cartridge pleated skirt.

Dress made using my Izannah Walker dress pattern, with the addition of a cartridge pleated skirt and contrasting fabric trim.

Cartridge pleated dress made of antique double pink fabric.

Close-up showing a cartridge pleated skirt and bodice on a woman's reproduction c. 1830's gown.

Close-up of cartridge pleating at the top of an 1830's sleeve.

The inside of a cartridge pleated skirt. Notice that the amount of fabric turned down for the cartridge pleating increases by 1/2 inch from the right side of the photo to the left. This is intentional.

This is what the baby dress shown in the video looks like now that I have completed it.

Close-up of the waistband and pleating on my reproduction c.1830's baby dress.

This week I’ve had to say good-bye to two of my dolls that have been on lay-away.  I feel just like a mom who is sending her child off to kindergarten.  Sad to see them go, but happy that they are growing up and venturing out in the world.

The doll that left here on Tuesday has already reached her new home and I have heard that she is busy making new friends over tea and gingerbread.

My second young traveler is all packed and waiting for the postman to escort her on her way tomorrow.

Follow this link to view my current auctions – a few are “buy it now”.

In these final few hours of 2011 I would like to take a moment to thank you all for making this a wonderful year.  I am extremely fortunate to be able to spend my days recreating dolls, clothing, and other treasured flights of fancy from the past.  I sincerely appreciate all of you who have provided such unstinting encouragement and kind words.  Your notes and phone calls have meant more to me than I can say…

I’d like to share a few excerpts from the correspondence that I have received this year which has touched my heart.

From C.  “I am so thrilled to have found your website and to be able to realize a dream I have had for many years!  I really appreciate all the time and care you take in just making sure someone feels comfortable in the ordering and purchasing process!  Thank you so much!!”  C. – I have loved discussing fabrics and dress styles with you… we are kindred spirits.  Working on your doll will be a joy!

“Hi! Paula! The class workbook arrived about two weeks ago and to say that I was impressed and excited would be to put it mildly… I just can’t believe that I found you and am going to be making my very own Izannah doll. ” D.  D. -  your enthusiasm, energy and goodwill shine in every note you’ve sent.

“Hello, And thank you sooo much! she is beautiful!!!   O my!!!  I’m going to go “play dollz” she is the best! and so are you! I need to name her,…hummm….I’ll let ya know, B.”  B. -  I simply loved planning this doll with you, playing with all the fabric you sent and getting a chance to chat on the phone.  I hope you’ve managed to avoid any more root canals!!

“I really appreciate your blog, it’s very elegant and well done, so thank you as one fellow collector to another. B.B.”  B.B. You are a delightful and fascinating correspondent!  Thank you.

S. even managed to make me blush with 73 characters of eBay feedback… “Stunning doll! Fast delivery! Amazing quality doll from talented artist!”S. – I’m so happy you have this doll and I hope that you enjoy your Christmas present!  Your husband couldn’t have been nicer when he called to order your class.  I’m very pleased to have you as a new student.  Making your own Izannah will be a great adventure.

From P. “Oh Paula, I love your Izannah on Ebay right now. She is fantastic. Everything little thing about her I am in love with. Do you have some of the fabric from her dresses left over? I’d love to buy one just like her after Christmas. She is worth every penny of her buy it now. Everyone should go check her out.”  P. – Your warmth and encouragement are something I appreciate so much.  Writing back and forth and having you in my class is wonderful.  I would be thrilled to make a doll just for you.

Thank you Paula for being so generous… I feel that I have gotten the most for my money in being able to make as close to a real IW as is probably possible with your class…  If anybody will take my advice, I will steer them your way because I believe they will be better off with you. Thanks M.  M- you have been a delight to teach!  Your thirst for knowledge and dedication to perfecting your dolls is awe-inspiring.  I’m very proud to have been able to point you in the right direction.

“I can only say that even though I have been sculpting and making dolls, I didn’t have the information about Izannah Walker doll design that your class has offered, as well as your other sewing information, and ongoing online assistance with the challenging areas of sculpting and mold making too.  It’s a lesson as well as the real up close information, like patterns, body design and history. Those of us who never saw a real Izannah doll can get a closer look from this class. Much enjoyed! Thank you Paula.” From M.  M. – I so appreciate your support and evident enjoyment of my class.  You are an amazing doll artist and your work is outstanding.  I love “talking” with you.  Are you making any headway in tuning in on your grandmother’s hand made buttonhole skills?

To L. (known as M. to her friends), your phone calls are pure delight.  I’m so happy to have been able to provide you with one of the dolls that you have always wanted.  For a woman in her 9th decade you are one of the youngest people at heart that I know!  It makes me happy to know that one of my dolls is sitting in the antique chair that you’ve had waiting for her for all these years.

There are so many more people that I haven’t mentioned, who have also sent lovely notes my way.  Thank you, I treasure them all.  You have helped to make my life richer and allowed me to live out my dreams.

May the upcoming New Year be the time when all of your dreams come true!

                                                                                                                                Paula

I’ve always been rather fond of rick rack.  It reminds me of my childhood.  The dress I wore to my first day of kindergarten was trimmed with white rick rack and I remember seeing it on countless aprons and kitchen curtains during my youth.

In truth, rick rack or waved braid, as it was first known, has been in existence far longer than I have.   I haven’t been able to track down an exact date yet, but it was certainly available when this papier-mache  milliner’s model was made in the 1830′s.

The waved braid on the dress above is an exact color match to the dress fabric.  Both the braid and fabric are cotton and I am speculating that they were dyed to match.  The dress is original to the doll.  Three rows of waved braid circle the skirt and the bodice is adorned with a lavish combination of braid and knotting.

Waved braid and knotting trim the bodice of this 1830's doll's dress. (click on image to enlarge) Collection of the author.

By 1882, when the following paragraph from The Dictionary of Needlework was published, waved braid was certainly common place and was being used to trim children’s clothing.  It’s not a far leap from children’s garments to doll clothes, which explains why waved braid is often seen on doll clothing from this era.

“There are also waved cotton braids, used for trimming children’s dresses, which are sold by the gross, cut into lengths.  The numbers are 11, 17, 21, 29, and 33.  There are also waved worsted braids for children’s use, which are sold in knots of 4 or 5 yards each, and sold by the gross pieces.  The numbers are 13, 17, and 21.”

Waved braid trimming the neck and sleeve edges of the original chemise that belongs to one of my antique Izannah Walker dolls.

In the 1880′s it was also popular to do crochet work using waved braid.  Some fantastic laces can be created in this manner.  I don’t crochet, but if you do and would like to read more about how to make this type of lace, follow this link.

This is the lower edge of a doll's petticoat, from my collection, that is trimmed with tucks and an extravagant use of waved braid.

Having the patience and perseverance to hand stitch the points of waved braid together, with a single thread, is rewarded by the spectacular effect you can achieve for very little money.

A close-up of white lace created by combining crochet with waved braid.

The use of colored braid with crochet gives an entirely different effect to this antique lace.

This waved braid lace is destined to grace the petticoat of one of my Izannah Walker dolls. It will look just perfect peeping out from below Turkey red skirts!

No matter what name you call it by, waved braid, snake braid, corrugated braid, rick rack ( alternately ricrac, ric-rack or ric rac) is a very authentic choice for trimming historically accurate, mid-1800′s reproduction doll clothing.

If you are one of my students  who has not already signed up for the class member only site, I strongly urge you to do so.  Here is a sample of the bonus class information  you are missing out on if you are not using the class site:

- A Tutorial on How to Reduce & Enlarge Patterns

- Making Molds: Instructions on How to Make Three Additional Types of Molds (different than the molds in the class instructions book)

- Straw and Silk Bonnet Tutorial

- Directions for Making a Classic Izannah Walker mid-1800′s Child’s Dress

- Discussions and additional Directions for “Adding the Grace of Age”, Painting Tips, Clay, Sculpting, Tools, Special Accessories, and more…

and best of all it’s entirely free for all class members.

Email me at paula@asweetremembrance.com if you are a student who needs another invitation to the class site (everyone is automatically invited when they purchase the class).  Be sure to include the approximate date that you took/purchased the class so that it will be easier for me to look you up in my records.  Also for those who have already signed-up for the Ning site but can’t remember how to get there, I am happy to send you a reminder

If you haven’t taken my class yet, but have been longing to do so, this would be a wonderful time to start.  Make it your 2012 New Year’s resolution to learn how to create an Izannah Walker doll using the same techniques that Izannah did.  I do have a handful of classes ready that I can mail out immediately, so it is still possible to get a class before Christmas if you order today or tomorrow  (forUS shipping address only).

Red print fabrics.

I love fabric!  Especially if it is old.  I thought some of you kindred spirits and doll makers might enjoy taking a look at my collection of Izannah era fabrics.  They span the 1830′s – 1890′s, which covers virtually all of Izannah Walker’s doll making career, from her earliest doll, rumored to have been made in 1828; through the start of her doll making business in 1845, as reported by her grand-niece Norma H. Robertson, on to  her United States patent in 1878 and her death in 1886.

Orange "cheddar" prints.

If you order a custom-made doll or doll clothing you may choose from any of these textiles.  In most cases, I only have enough of each to make a single dress, although there are a few exceptions.   Some pieces are just large enough to use as trim or for accessories.

Clarets and nutmeg browns.

Brown prints were very fashionable in the 1860's.

Indigo blues, group 1.

Even more indigos (group 2).

Civil War era "double pinks".

"Poison" greens.

Black and white "mourning" print fabrics.

Browns and reds.

A lovely sheer cotton printed with subtle plum and golden yellow flowers.

1830's Prussian blue paisley.

Red and blue paisley.

I spent the entire summer scouting for antique fabric and lace, so I currently also have a good supply of exquisite whites  for dresses and undergarments.

Antique whites.

If you would like to be among the first to know when I have new reproduction Izannahs available, just ask and I will add you to my “new dolls” mailing list too.

Happy Thanksgiving!  I hope you all enjoyed a wonderful feast surrounded by family and friends.  I am thankful for so many things in my life, including all of my terrific customers and students.

As a virtual “dessert”, to top off all of your harvest sweets, I am having a special sale on my Izannah Walker Class by Mail (click on this link) and my Spun Cotton Ornament Class by Mail (click on this link) from now through Monday, November 28, 2011.